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Camping gear and survival items
Cleaning equipment, gun care
Birchwood Casey gun care
Bore Snake bore cleaners
Hoppes gun cleaning gear
Otis cleaning kits & accessories
Remington cleaning kits
Southern Bloomer
Outers gun cleaning kits
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Emergency Wise food, survival meals
Flashlights, tac-lights, lasers
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Safety and personal security
Sights, scopes, rings and mounts
Targets and throwers
Zombie gun accessories

Cleaning equipment, gun care

Birchwood Casey logo Birchwood Casey gun care: PermaBlue "cold bluing", Aluminum Black, TruOil for stock refinishing projects.  Recommended product!
Boresnake cleaning kit in use Bore Snake: A unique, quick-to-use tool that combines a cleaning brush with a nylon pull. Drop it down your bore and pull clean!  Recommended product!
Hoppes Number 9 gun cleaning kit Hoppes: Makers of the famous Hoppes Number 9 gun solvent, they make great on-the-go cleaning kits and gun cleaning accessories.
Kleenbore cleaning products Kleen-Bore: American maker of high-quality cleaning kits, steel cleaning rods, solvent, patches, bronze or stainless brushes, nylon brushes, jags/tips, and more. With Kleen-Bore, there's something for everyone!
Otis gun cleaning kit Otis cleaning kits & accessories: innovative, compact, pull through kits and patches
Southern Bloomer .22 cleaning patches Southern Bloomer: Gun cleaning patches
Remington range bag cleaning kit Remington cleaning kits: RemOil, range bag cleaning system, Squeeg-E cleaners, brushes, etc.
Tipton cleaning rod Tipton: Carbon fiber cleaning rods and acccessories for fine firearms.

Tips and advice

Advice for Preppers
Cleaning dead skin cells from guns
Rust removal basics

Advice for Preppers

When it comes to gun cleaning, everyone's got an opinion about what works best. Some think the world of aluminum cleaning rods, while others gave up on anything less than steel rods after accidentally breaking enough aluminum rods. Some think Break Free is the best, others look down their noses at anyone who doesn't use Hoppes Number 9. What matters most is not WHO made it, but having WHAT you need, WHEN you need it. That is the best equipment of all.

3 day pack:

At a bare minimum, have a Bore Snake, sized for each Bug Out Gun, for the lightest and most minimal cleaning. You can use the nylon cord for manual cleaning of nooks and crannies. Better would be an Otis or Kleen Bore pocket sized cleaning kit, or military style M16 cleaning kit. You can add extra brushes as needed. Remington, Break Free CLP, and others make micro sized oil bottles for lubrication and bore cleaning. In a pinch, even used motor oil will lubricate guns.

30 day pack:

Having a full cleaning kit, including solvent, oil, grease, a metal cleaning rod, brushes, and all the goodies, is a good addition to your pack. Think compact! You don't need a wooden tool box when a bread loaf sized range bag, ziploc, or rolled up towel of supplies will do. Be careful, however, about containing liquids as they may be crushed or broken if not stored in adequate protection. Solvent soaked food or water bottles, clothes, etc. won't do! Balance the two needs: compact size versus protection.

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Cleaning dead skin cells from guns

Glock checkering and toothbrush With almost all the States having right-to-carry laws, there are now a great many polymer framed, concealed carry pistols not seen, but in service these days. On top of that, law enforcement tend toward the big-bore, polymer framed guns for daily duty. No matter what time of year they're used, they're often carried near the body, or handled regularly, causing skin cells, sweat, and body oils to accumulate.

This is especially true on the polymer frames that have grooves, texturing, and checkering to produce a confident hold. With time, these "nasties" can build up into a flesh-colored paste that no one wants to touch, let alone show off to others. This paste doesn't clean off easily with normal gun oil or solvent. An easy solution is probably already sitting around your home: toothpaste, water, and an old toothbrush do a great job of cleaning the "nasties" away from polymer just as they do with teeth.

A little scrubbing with the toothbrush, a water rinse, and an air dry are all you need to get back your sense of dignity and happy gun ownership. This works well with polymer magazines, such as Glock or HK. It can also be used for cleaning the nasties from blued or stainless steel slide serrations, thumb safeties, around iron sights, frames, grips, and other areas where you're likely to find skin cell paste buildup. If you're concerned about toothpaste abrasiveness on steel, use a good, liquid dish detergent, like Dawn. Be sure to pat the steel dry, then oil your gun down promptly to prevent even the hint of rust.

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Rust removal basics

Rust removal tools"There are only two things guns fear: politicians and rust." That's what a popular bumper sticker says to us. Rust is usually a lot easier to get rid of, too. If you have a problem with gun rust, here's what to do.

Step one, unload the gun and remove all ammunition from the room. Step two, check for vulnerabilities. If you have a gun that has a rusty area near paint (such as around the on/off safety indicator or the tritium vials of night sights), light pipe sights (like Hiviz or Truglo), scopes, lasers, lights, or electronics, or a painted coating, cover these areas to protect them. Using painters' masking tape, a plastic sandwich bag, or a grocery bag can quickly and cheaply cover the vulnerable areas because of the next step. Step three is to let the rusty area soak in WD40, or some other penetrating oil like Kroil, for at least 10 minutes (not a minute less).

After a good soaking, use some 0000 (four ought) sized steel wool (commonly found at any hardware store) or bronze wool (a specialty item you'll only find at a paint store) and gently rub the oiled area. Surface rust generally rubs out in just a few seconds, while deeper rust may take more than one application. When done, your metal wool will look horrible, but you can keep it in a plastic sandwich bag for future use. It tends to break apart with rubbing so most people simply add more wool to the scrubbing, as needed.

Wipe the gun clean with a disposable cotton work rag as you won't be washing your cleanup cloth in the washing machine. Carefully remove all WD40, especially from areas that will contaminate ammunition. WD40 can penetrate ammo and render it inactive. Once the WD40 is gone, carefully oil your gun with gun oil, grease, or other lubricant as you normally would. Lastly, remove the protection from your vulnerable areas.

Another good idea is to use good chemically resistant gloves (also available from hardware and paint stores) to protect your hands. WD40 penetrates skin, making a smell that is hard to remove. To wash oily hands, consider using an orange/pumice hand cleaner, or Dawn dishwashing liquid with warm water. Most rust can be removed in as little as 15 to 30 minutes, which isn't much time to devote to your trusty, gunpowder powered tools.

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